百年时尚的密语 重庆展 2018年3月24日–5月24日
Exposition Histoire de la Lingerie a Chongqing Chine
策展人Commissaire d’exposition: 郑玲波 Lingbo FAVRE
从1775年至1975年，从玛丽·安托瓦内特时期的华丽裙摆到尚达尔·托马斯的精致内衣，重庆原·美术馆在此展览里呈现代表了两个世纪以来的法国甚至是欧美内衣界的精髓。本次展览得到法国内衣博物馆“巴黎丝绸之夜(Nuits de Satin Paris)”的支持，该馆拥有的内衣裙衫、紧身衣、胸衣、吊袜带、泳衣等珍贵馆藏在世界享有盛誉；您将从五千余件作品里精选出的百余件展品中，领略到两百年来内衣时尚的变迁、社会发展、工业的制造发明与新材料的运用、细致的传统工艺、设计师们的才能与创造力……由内而外。内在的思想也影响着外在的形式。女性的内衣事实上更是一部生动的社会发展史，一段鲜活的时尚艺术文化史。其真实地反映了女性的社会角色之转变，思维的变革，性与性别观念的冲撞和调合，自我意识的觉醒和重识。
通过美术馆的第一个空间，展览呈现时尚的内在: 从西方的十八世纪至十九世纪，内衣的天下由紧身胸衣，帕尼耶裙撑、克里诺林裙撑、笼型裙撑衬裙等主宰。早期的内衣其实都是关于轮廓的创造。第二个空间从战后的20年代开始叙说: 疯狂年代让女性内衣有了更自由的表达形式；40年代由创新材料尼龙所推动的革新，在二战之后的1945年至1960年席卷西方；与此同时，以好莱坞元素以及Pin-Up思潮为领头的美国文化，影响了欧洲内衣界的变化。1947年，克里斯汀·迪奥开创了新面貌New-Look。他在那时重点讲述:“没有内衣，没有时尚”；60年代由于莱卡面料面世，这种轻型又极富弹性塑性的面料很好地适应了女性的自由解放的潮流，但女权运动对男性社会压迫的抗争，却也废弃了美丽多样的内衣;直至70年代后，内衣又焕发了新生。
From 1775 to 1975, from the side-hoops (paniers) of Marie-Antoinette’s time to the Lingerie of Chantal Thomas, the Chongqing Yuan Museum presents two centuries of excellence of French savoir-faire, or know-how, in the world of lingerie. The exhibition offers a hundred textile pieces taken from one the biggest collections in the world, the «Nuits de Satin Paris », collection which includes more than 5000 pieces of lingerie, corsets, and swimwear. Passing through this exhibition, you will see the evolution of lingerie, that of society, the industrial innovations, the beautiful materials, refined craftsmanship, talents and creations…
The inner thoughts also influencing the external form. In fact, women’s Lingerie is a vivid evolution of social development, an art and culture of fashion history. It truly reflects the transformation of women’s social roles, the thinking, the conflict and fitting of concepts and perceptions of sex and gender, the awakening and re-recognition of self conscious.
Looking around the world, women continue to strive for more independence and self-reliance in the new era. Chinese women are well known for their independence, especially those in Chongqing, which is a pioneering and open metropolis city, giving the women more freedom to show themselves. The Yuan Museum located in Chongqing, known as “Chongqing Eye”, because of its unique circular shape, seems to mean: Observing the world and history through all of its views, and with a tolerance to show various countries and different forms of art and culture. Therefore, the exhibition of the history of lingerie, has found an excellent show place in the Yuan Museum.
Through the museum’s reception space, the exhibition presents Fashion’s Inner: From 18th century to 19th century in France, (Europe), which was the kingdom of corsets, and the crinolines, cage skirts, and bustles. Early underwear was about the creation of the outline. The second domain began its narrative from the 20s after the war: the «Roaring Twenties» trend revolutionised lingerie by blowing a wind of freedom through female underwear. The 40s are marked by an invention that would revolutionise lingerie, Nylon. Its reign would not be shared during the years following the war between 1945 to 1960. Underwear would be strongly influenced by the United States who exported the image of the Hollywood Vamp and the Pin-Up to Europe. In France, Christian Dior invented, in 1947, the New-Look, saying at the time that there is: “No fashion without underwear”; The 60s were marked by the invention of Lycra, (Spandex), the first stretch fibre which allowed the creation of new more functional, and more minimalist lingerie. In 1968, the emergence of the women’s liberation movement advocated the abandonment of all lingerie, symbol of societal oppression. The seventies marked the return back of lingerie.
The exhibited works have been selected from time and have reached us. Behind these works, we naturally find the trace of a woman who used to live in history. It is also true to say that this exhibition portrays an Art way of life. It is also a material representation of the social relationship between Woman and Man. These works of Lingerie bring us another view of the past, which will also give us more thinking and prospects for the future.